The feel of the water, the power of a swell

Today I went to the dunes.
The dunes is a sand bar infront of where I live in Magdalena Bay where the Pacific Ocean meets Land and hits it pretty hard creating in some especial ocations, this big, nicely form, chunky, wave.
DUring this day, we arrive there pretty early, driving in my friends Anaconda Johnson´s boat, we arrived there just at high tide, we park the boat in the bay side, the black inflatable, exmarine boat looked pretty sad and lonely, with out its normal bodyguard, Wanda, the blow up doll.
At high tide the waves at the beach, in the other side of the huge dunes, cover with coyote tracks, and dolphin skeletons, are just a big fat burrito, they never completely brake, they just go on an on, but at the perfect moment of the day, when the correct amount of force and water is approaching the beach, the waves formations were sweet like candybars. The waves where big, the waves where powerful, the waves kicked my ass, like never before, I was swallowing water, being hit with the zebra, red wood board, I was using, and no waves where surf at the moment, I was close to quitting when my friend Johnson, help me get a wave. At that point I started to paddle as fast as I could, hoping that the wave would give me my "One way ticket to midnight, heavy metal showdown" (for more references on the matter watch SouthPark episode on getting high with cat urine). I could feel the movement, I could see my board going faster and faster, and at that point I was going into this huge wave, this huge movement on water, crawling over the surface of the world, going forward, and with me on top.
It is hard to explain the feeling that you got when you are on a Wave, I dont know if I experience it more because I dont usually experience it, although I experience the feeling of going under a wave a lot, but the feeling of going on top is so full of energy, so peaceful, so fantastic, that its a kind of rush, you normally dont experience. Now that I read my description, I realize how lame it is compared, to that few seconds of glory in which I dominated the furious rage of the ocean. As my friend Anaconda says, its awesome to be on a wave, to imagine the power you are riding, imagining that, that force you are on, came all the way from the North Pole, and now you are on top of it, as a last ceremony, to honor this fantastic wave before its departure, before its final vogaye. Before its death against a sandy bar.