My lucky day (sangre en el agua)

First watch this

http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo117/snatcherac/antonio.gif

(Sorry but I will have to leave the second part of the BLACK DESIERTO ZAGA POR LATER, this new story is needed right now)


........Someday in the beggining of march I am writing this sitting at the top of a dusty cliff just over where the waves crash, well they are not only regular pounding waves, they are the famous burrito couch puffy San Juanico wave.
The night is chill and calm not a single sound for miles, just the ocean, no moon up there, just the millions of eyes that shine like flowers on a dark garden. There is a night butterfly o una mantequilla que levita, walking on my sweatshirt and I have one eye shut completely bu a cotton patch, 3 stitches on my face and a swollen chickbone, that is probably going to start to hurt later in the night, just when I want to close my eyes on the tent and go to sleep, probably I am not going to sleep a lot tonight. And yet today it was my lucky day.
I arranged this trip with my friend Anaconda Johnson to come surf the burrito swell on an amazing swell and do some interviews for him, on some research he is doing, and for that he is paying for all the fish tacos and beer I can have. But I still need money, I have been expecting my first payment for my new job since a week ago, and I been living out of coins and a box of cereal, uhmm delicious cereal. Today in Consti, finally got my money.
Getting Lucky #1
Then we ride straight to la Purisima where they didnt had date bread, so maybe that was un lucky, but at least they had cold TECATES.Getting Lucky #2
After that we arrived to Sa
n Juanico the waves where there you could see from the beach that the power that came from all the way from Chile, was building up.I have to say at the beggining I struggle cause the waves where fast, and there where a lot of dudes out there in this increasinggly popular place, so if you want to find it go straight to Guatemala. Sudenly when i was getting tyred of getting smacked and really really cold whan Burrito decided to give me my "One way ticket to midnight" (for references watch SouthPark cat urine episode http://www.southparkstudios.com/episodes/164823/).
I have to say I have been in this ordeal of surfing for about a year, and I sucked until today where I finally surfed a good wave. Surfing, I think, Is not just getting on top of a board and shout like crazy, while you go straight, surfing, I think, is going un and down the wave, gaining speed, is working yourself to the maximum speed and basicly
telling that burrito "Hey you men, you are my bitch", jajaja. Getting lucky #3 (not me in the pic)
Ok so after that wave gave me my ticket I decided to carry my longboard to 1st poing where it was less crowded, first I thought I wasnt going to get anything but suddenly this bald guy back off and i was there getting my ticket. I promise I ride that beautiful shiny cadillac for about a minute when I reach almost the town on my wave I saw back at the little spots of people that were, where i started. Wow a long way, a long wave
Getting lucky #4
I have to say that after this my body forgot the cold, I was boiling and wanted more. I got there and after a few failures I got the best wave that has ever been riden, It was perfectly rounded and fat, with speed and height, I got there and dont know how I didnt fall from the board after standing and droping on the wall a couple of meters. The bald guy was infront of me on the same wave, but I manage to go up and down, up and accelerating, while waking or dancing on my board, going to the front, to the front all the way to the tip. It was gorgeus, and while I was approaching the beach the wave started to loose force and dissappear, the power ended and after been there like for a minute, I fell to the front, a second before my face touch the water the back of the board (I think) catapulted itself thanks to the leash or strap, that was holding my right leg, with all the momentum of the Pacific Ocean and hit my face like 1 cm down from my right eye. But not in the eye Getting lukcy #5It hurt like hell and I imediatly knew it was going to get worst. My eye felt weird and with my other eyw I just could see blood pouring down my arms, like if I was taking a shower with catsup. I put my right hand on top of my eye, I thought it had pop out and with my other eye I tried to swim out and get to the beach hoping someone would see me.
Somebody grab my shoulder and told me to seat down, he unhooked my surfboard and started asking me ?¿ to see if I knew where I was. I remember I was laughing a lot, while holding my eye from falling out.This guy, on his wetsuit, aparently was on the wave that was after mine, suddenly pops out, this huge (jajaja sounds bad) med kit, and tells me he is a kind of medic, I dont know what he meant by that. Meanwhile I am shaking, covered in blood and trying to hold my eye.
This guy clean my eye, (it wasnt out he told me) put some alcohol and a nice bandaid on it, and give me some painkillers and ask me if I was ok. Getting lucky #6
He just needed to give me a loly pup and I was set. After that we drive down the beach to my camping spot and I could hear other surfers making sounds like ohhhh, and ahhhh, and Iwas still wondering how I looked. I even heard a guy say, "hey Paquiao hit you man".
This time for the first time ever we are camping with Robin and Billie, this great old hippie couple from up california. They received me very worried and even Anaconda told me if I wanted to go back to La Paz to a plastic surgeon he was willing to take me a
t the momento.
I decided to go to the doctor on town, to get stiches and maybe get a chance tosurf again on saturday. Before leaving my almost grandma Robin gave me some delicious highbiskus tea and made me promise I was not going to eat anything in town, I had to come back because she was going to fix me dinner with her awesome organic veggies. By the way she is a chef.
>Getting lucky #7
Then we went to the Doctor this lady called Angelica and it turns out I met her before because last time with Mr.Mangina I was here and help here translate to a couple that had drop there baby to the floor.
This really nice doctor loved med and took good care of me and gave me 3 stiches and a nice smile all the time, and a huge patch.
Lucky #8
Then we drove back had some amazing hot frijoles with a million veggies in, some rice and cheese, and tortillas, all this with an amazing salad. Uhmm this day wasnt that bad.

............ Oh yeah, no more surfing for the weekend..........